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By Fred Hart, 04/07/2014 23:51

Today has taken me to several places around the city. I really am making the most of my unlimited Athens travel pass. Although this does include the busses, I’ve yet to actually use them: the underground is more convenient.

Metaxourgeio is my nearest – including the time it takes to get to the ground floor of my hotel, then to the station and on to the platform, I am just 10 minutes from Syntagma Station. Syntagma is where I started my day: I went to the post office to get some stamps (they’re not sold by the kiosks as there are actual proper post offices here).

Next on my list of chores was ticket collection. My ferry ticket to Syros was pre-booked before I flew out here: all I had to do was get the train down to Piraeus (journey time about 40 minutes) and type me booking number in to the e-ticket machine. Easy! My return ferry tickets will be picked up from the ticket office on Syros itself. No e-ticket machines for the Blue Star Ferries though – I have to show my booking confirmation and passport to a person.

Then, it was on to Ag. Paraskevi – one of Athens’ suburbs – for a visit to the Greek equivilant of Broadcasting House, known as the Radiomegaro. Home to ERT until it was closed last year, NERIT is the current public service broadcaster in Greece. It currently runs 3 radio stations (one of which opened only on Tuesday) and 2 TV channels; with a planned 3 more radio stations and a couple more TV channels on the way too.

I note that the ΠΟΣΠΕΡΤ journalists union has banners still protesting the closure of ERT in a prominent place outside the NERIT building.

After a late lunch at PitaQ, just a short distance away from the studios, I took the underground back in to Athens itself for a late siesta at the hotel.

In the evening, I ventured to yet another new area of Athens: I got the tube to Acropoli station, wandered round the Acropolis Museum (free entry for students) and then went to see a concert at the Oden of Herodes Atticus; an open air theatre on the Southern slopes of the Acropolis.

It was a fantastic concert, to celebrate the union with Greece of the Eptanisia (the Ionian islands). Sitting right at the top of the theatre, I got chatting to some South Africans in the audience and discussed Greece for a bit. At the end of the concert, we got a live version of the Greek national anthem, and I’m quite proud of the fact that I know the words well enough that I could join in with the Greeks when they started singing!

Tomorrow, I’m going to see the Acropolis itself, and I’m going to walk up Lykavvitos Hill.

Bye for now.

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By Fred Hart, 04/07/2014 23:18

Went to see the Athens Symphony Orchestra playing live in the centre of Athens tonight. A concert to celebrate 150 years since the Ionian islands became part of Greece.

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By Fred Hart, 04/07/2014 19:37

While waiting for the start of my concert I wandered round the Acropolis Museum (free entry for EU students).

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By Fred Hart, 04/07/2014 15:00

Above: Just a few minutes from the underground station is the Radiomegaro, which is the Greek version of Broadcasting House. It is home to NERIT.

Below: Lunch on a student budget: Pita gyros pork and a drink.

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By Fred Hart, 04/07/2014 11:17

Short trip to Piraeus to collect my ferry ticket for Syros.

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By Fred Hart, 04/07/2014 09:59

Metaxourgeio is the nearesrt underground station to my hotel; within 4 minutes I can be on the platform, and 6 minutes after that I’m in Syntagma.

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By Fred Hart, 03/07/2014 22:58

The Attiki region of Greece is not known for having brilliant beaches – but that’s not to say there aren’t any.

After calling in at Syntagma Square to buy some postcards, I hopped back on the tube (I love my 7 day all-Athens travel pass!) and headed towards Victoria Station.

The KTEL bus station is less than 5 minutes walk from the tube station: and it is from here the busses to the likes of Sounio and Rafina leave.

Sitting waiting for the bus, I realised that I obviously look Greek when travelling alone. A Greek child who looked far too young to be smoking asked me if I had any τσιγάρα (cigarettes). «Όχι, δεν καπνίζω» was my reply. (“No, I don’t smoke”). A tourist from Cyprus asked me if I knew where to get a bus timetable from. It seems most of them don’t have a clue I’m a ‘foreigner’ and talk at full-speed Greek until they see the confused look on my face when they use a word I don’t understand.

I took the bus to Porto Rafti (Πόρτο Ράφτη), a seaside town in Eastern Attika. The journey costs €3,70 each way: What isn’t clear from the timetable is that you change busses shortly after Koropi. The ticket officer makes an announcement when it’s time to do so, but only in Greek (99% of the passengers were Greek). Usually the coach you’ve got to get on to is there waiting for you – or not more than 5 minutes away.

Porto Rafti itself isn’t a bad place; I took the coach right to the end of the route, so outside the village, in the hope of finding a quieter bit of beach (which I did). I stayed there for a couple of hours enjoying the sea breeze (the meltemi is up, but can’t be felt in Athens); I read my book; I did swim; read my book some more; and got lunch from the supermarket.

After returning to the hotel for a bit, dinner time arrived. Tonight a slight change: instead of fast food I opted for one of the tavernas just off Karaiskaki Square, which is the main square near my hotel, and it’s where the nearest tube station – Metaxourgeio – is.

The taverna was only a small one: 3 tables on the pavement outside, and 3 inside. I had spaghetti bolognese, baked bread (it was similar to, but not exactly, a focaccia), and a glass of cherry juice for a total of €8. I imagine the same would have been double in the tourist districts.

Looking forward to next week, and I sent an e-mail to my hosts in Levadia to let them know I was in Greece; on Monday I will take the train to Levadia and Dimitris will pick me up from the station when I arrive.

I’m off to bed now. Tomorrow, I’ve got postcards to send, and a concert to look forward to in the evening.

Bye for now.

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 23:59

My first full day in the city was spent exploring Central Athens. After breakfast in my hotel, I headed to the underground to get my 7 day all-Athens travel pass. For €14 I have unlimited travel on the metro, busses and trams in the city.

I headed straight for the heart of Athens: Syntagma Square, from where I could see the Greek Parliament. The building itself is closed to the public, but I was able to stand outside it and take some photos of the Presidential Guards (the Evzones/Εύζωνες) by the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

Next to Parliament lies the National Garden – originally the Royal Garden: Just like the UK Parliament, the Greek Parliament is in fact a Royal Residence. Parliament didn’t move in until as recently as the 1930s. There’s plenty of shade; plenty of space to sit. It’s like a maze in there: I had to stop and look at the map several times to find my way around it! There’s a central lake, there are turtles, there’s a playground for children, there’s a café where I sat and had a drink.

Before returning to my hotel, I walked down the pedestrianized road leading away from Syntagma, and it wasn’t long before I got my first glimpse of the Acropolis. I’ll be doing that on Friday, after my visit to the NERIT TV and Radio studios in Agia Paraskevi.

On arrival back in Metaxourgeio, a cheese pie was on the menu for lunch, before tuned to the and took a nice 3 hour long siesta.

Later in the afternoon, I returned to the underground – this time heading towards Victoria station and the National Archaeological Museum. I took my University of Gloucestershire ID card, allowing me free entry. Even abroad, I am getting my money’s worth from the university.

This district of Athens is quite different compared where I was earlier in the day. After changing trains at Omonia station, I noted that the train was packed (more so than the ones I was on earlier in the day). The social class of the people on the train was different: Gone was the mixture of tourists and business people. It’s easy to see why the Piraeus to Kifisia line is the one with the biggest pick-pocketing problems. I’m glad I’ve booked a taxi for my journey to Piraeus in a few weeks I think! (On that note: The money belt I wear under my shirt is rather comfortable. Thanks for asking).

My social class observations continued when I stumbled upon the Pedion tou Areos – Athens’ biggest public park. Once considered among the most dangerous areas of the city, it has recently had a refurbishment costing more than €10 million.

It is much better than it was, but it still attracts a – shall we say – slightly different social class than the National Gardens. That’s a shame, because the park itself isn’t bad. Even during the day, there are drug addicts, drug dealers and homeless people hiding amongst the trees off some of the other paths.

It will come as no surprise to those who know Athens that the areas surrounding Victoria and Omonia stations are on my list of areas to avoid completely after dark.

I returned to my hotel again, and got ready to go and find some dinner. There was a souvlaki takeaway ΠίταΠαν (Pita Pan) hidden behind McDonald’s in Syntagma Square – catching a glimpse of their menu this morning, the idea of pork souvlaki pita for €2,25 appealed to me.

So for the evening I went back to where my day started; I walked the same route, and then enjoyed takeaway souvlaki pita while sitting in Syntagma Square.

Syntagma Square was relatively quiet at 10am compared to how busy it was at 10pm!

I’m about to head to bed for the night now. Tomorrow, I’m going out of the city for a bit, taking the bus to Porto Rafti for some time at the beach.

Bye for now, Καληνύχτα.

FH.

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 22:14

How does takeaway pita souvlaki in Syntagma Square compare to home made souvlaki on skewers in my student house?

At risk of sounding disloyal to the lovely radio lot: Syntagma Square is by far a better location – although the experience would be even better if I was able to share it with others.

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 20:40

The sun dipping below the mountain opposite is my queue to go and get ready for dinner.

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 18:24

One of the largest public parks in Athens; re-opened in 2010 after a €10m refurbishment. It attracts a – shall we say – slightly different social class than the National Gardens. That’s a shame, because the park itself isn’t bad.

The statue of Konstantine I, King of the Hellenes, stands at the entrance.

Above: The main path through the park. Even during the day, there are drug addicts, drug dealers and homeless people hiding amongst the trees off some of the other paths. This is one of the districts on my list of places to avoid after dark!

500

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 17:40

10 minutes walk from Victoria Station, just off 28 October St. lies the National Archaeological Museum – housed in what was until the mid 1930s the Greek Parliament.

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 12:00

Looking up at the Acropolis from the tourist district of Plaka.

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 11:25

Surrounding the Greek Parliament (and the Royal Garden until the 1920s), the National Gardens in Athens are open to the public from sunrise to sunset.

They’ve got turtles there too…

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 10:20

I am just 10 minutes by tube from the centre of Athens: Syntagma Square.

Good place to sunbathe on the grass and read a book!

Looking in the other direction, the Greek Parliament.

Above and Below: The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier outside the Greek Parliament, and the famous Presidential Guards (also known as Evzones/Εύζωνες).

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By Fred Hart, 02/07/2014 07:55

I’m up on the 4th floor of my hotel. I’m right at the top, in room 31. I can see the sea down at Piraeus from here (only a tiny bit, can’t see much). I also appear to be the only resident (on this side of the building at least) with a proper balcony.

In the other direction, the railway station Σταθμός Λαρίσης. During the evening rush hour (after about 16:30 until almost 19:00) the traffic queueing for the lights is backed up to where those two busses are (below).

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By Fred Hart, 01/07/2014 22:40

After 25 weeks of planning, I have finally commenced my Grand Tour of Greece.

I write to you now from the 4th floor of the Hotel Neos Olymbos in the heart of the Greek capital Athens – I am overlooking Athens-Larissa station, the Central railway station of the city.

It felt strange getting up this morning, seeing Dad leaving for work and saying “see you in Thessaloniki in a month”. (On that note: Thessaloniki looks great from 35000 feet above. We flew over it shortly before we began our decent in to Athens).

I was hearing Greek before I’d even reached Greece. There was a group of 8 Greeks (probably students) sitting somewhere behind me when I got on the coach in Cirencester yesterday morning; they’d got on at the previous stop in Cheltenham. They then got on the coach to Gatwick with me, and I bumped in to them again when we landed in Athens.

We landed 10 minutes early – shortly before 8pm; within half an hour I was in the taxi, travelling along the Attiki Odos motorway towards my hotel. I know Greek taxi drivers like to drive fast…but this is the first time I’ve been on a 3 lane motorway in a taxi. (It’s the first time I’ve been on an actual real motorway in Greece). Blimey, it was scary. But fun too.

By 21:30 I had checked in to my room and was considering my options for the evening. I walked out the front door and turned left – towards the Traffic Police HQ (lots of police cars with blue lights flashing going in and out – I’ve never seen emergency vehicles responding to emergencies in this country before, the islands are so quiet in comparison to the city).

I took a walk round the block, found the laundrette, lots of kafenions (that’s where the old men go to smoke, drink, and chat to their friends), the mini-market, the underground station, and a few tavernas too. I know in some of the reviews of this hotel, some guests said at night you can feel a bit uncomfortable or vulnerable in this district. I didn’t find that at all – and I’m a single traveller (for this bit of the trip anyway). I’ve felt more vulnerable/uncomfortable walking through some streets of Cheltenham after dark!

After a walk around, I had a cheap toastie for dinner in one of the nearby kafenions. The ability of an Englishman to speak Greek stunned the Albanian woman running the place. She too loves Greece, and moved here 7 years ago. I always take it as a compliment when someone tells me I speak “like a Greek” – more so when they say so without knowing I’ve only just arrived!

After paying my bill (€4,30) I was asked if I’d be returning to the kafenio every night. («Εδώ θα έρθεις κάθε μέρα;») «Μήπως», I said. “Maybe”.

I have to say that the wifi isn’t great up here on the 4th floor; sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t, sometimes it’s just very slow. The signal’s better downstairs, where there are some sofas and tables etc. in the breakfast room – but that’s a long way down!

It’s extremely hot. Night time temperatures are in the mid 20s, daytime temperatures low 30s – this is the cool period between 2 heatwaves. It’ll be hotter at the weekend. At least the air con is free in my room.

Tomorrow? I’m thinking I might start with an early morning walk before breakfast. Then I shall get the underground to Syntagma and explore Central Athens.

Bye just now,

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By Fred Hart, 18/06/2014 17:42

Got a ticket to see a concert at the Athens & Epidaurus Festival – at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

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By Fred Hart, 07/06/2014 19:46

Google Street View has launched in Greece.

I’ve been playing, taking virtual walks in both Athens and Thessaloniki.

Heres the hotel I’ll be staying at in Athens…

When I visit the Meteora in Central Greece, I’ll be staying in the village of Kastraki.

Later in the trip, I’ll be staying in this hotel in the middle of Thessaloniki.

Just a little taste of where I’ll be living in July and August this year.

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By Fred Hart, 04/06/2014 16:56

I paid for my train & ferry tickets this morning…